Tascas: Let’s try to save these special creatures from extinction

Margarida and Ti Tóia, Évora. Photo by Luís Neves

‘Portugal (…) is as modern as any country needs to be, as outrageously proud of its traditions, its potential, and its God-given duty to stand to as a fiery beacon of individuality raging against the insidious ooze of globalisation’

Oz Clarke (1) in “The Wine and Food Lover’s guide to Portugal” by Charles Metcalfe and Kathryn McWhirter

Isn’t it ironic that we need to get a quotation from an Englishman to highlight the Portuguese pride in its traditions?

The problem in my opinion is that we do not fight enough to preserve some of our most idiosyncratic institutions. So, this article, as is the mission of the Gastronautas project, is dedicated to doing our best to keep important dimensions of our gastronomic culture.

So, why “Tascas” and “Casas de Pasto”?. Because they are under threat, and represent very much the “Portuguese way of eating, and way of being”.

Tasca or Taberna is a place for working people to eat and drink.

In the old days, they had a lot of charm: a couple of wine casks on the back and a bar of marble, stained of red wine. It was a place for working men, so women rarely attend, normally only to collect their half-drunk husbands. I know it sounds anachronistic and sexist and all that.

But…

On an August Sunday in Évora, Alentejo, 3 friends were looking for a place to eat. They toured the city centre and all the restaurants were either closed (strange, right?) or full. Of course. So, as they considered the ultimate gastronomic blasphemy, of eating a burger and chips, they found this small, narrow place on a back street called “Tasquinha da Ti Tóia”. They went in and asked the lady behind the bar if there was any food left. ‘not really” she said,  But one of them saw some chickpea salad in the bar vitrine. She said “not enough for three”. He didn’t give up. It is enough if you add some of those “jaquinzinhos fritos” (2), some Évora cheese and some of the magnificent bread from Alentejo. But this are yesterday’s “jaquinzinhos”. Better still, he said.

Photo by Luís Neves

And soon enough they were enjoying this gorgeous light meal with a glass of cool house white. Perfect.

And, not long after, were chatting with a couple of regulars that shared stories from Alentejo.

To top the whole experience, our hostess, Ti Tóia, started singing Fado. And she sang well!

This is what a Tasca, Taberna or Tasquinha (everything with “inha” at the end means “little” in a tender way) is all about. It is where the locals eat. Is where the traditions are nourished. Is where people are humble and hospitable. Is where the food is beyond good value for money. Is where you can connect with older generations that have stories to tell. And if you are lucky is where you can hear your hostess sing “Fado à capela”

As a Portuguese native, even if a “rafeiro” with British blood and heritage, I think we should fight for this institution. Will people want to visit or move to Portugal if it looks like any other place? Will we Portuguese be happy to see every eating and drinking place transformed into a trendy of worse, pseudo-trending eatery? There is nothing wrong with enjoying Avocado on Toast, but this snack you can eat anywhere in the world, from Sidney to Los Angeles. 

So, the only solution I can think of, is to keep looking for, and going to these places; to talk about them, defend them from extinction, by promoting the work they do, the traditions they represent, and ultimately, the service they provide to Portuguese culture. 

(1) Oz Clarke is one of the most experienced and knowledgable of British wine critics. I had the privilege of meeting him, a long time ago, on a wine tasting in London.

(2) Jaquinzinhos Fritos. Soon we will have a full article about this very Portuguese dish. Is it a dish? Is it a snack? It can be both. The fact is that they are as delicious as versatile. It is very much a popular and traditional way of eating fish. It’s a small Horse Mackerel (7 to 10cm long) that is gutted, coated in wheat flour and fried in hot oil. Traditionally, is eaten as a snack (petisco) in Tabernas, as a great excuse to drink another glass of wine.