‘Marisco’: the sweet taste of the sea.
A feast of seafood. Photo by Filipe Gill
It’s 7am on a Sunday morning in July 1995. My friend Paulo Duarte convinced me to go with him to go to the cool sea in Zambujeira do Mar to catch Percebes – gooseneck barnacles. Believe me, it’s a risky undertaking. These creatures live on the outer rocks beaten by the sea because they need lots of oxygen. So, to catch them you need a protective wet suit, a bit of courage, some skill, and lots of luck. Timing is of the essence. You need to get it right: go down to the rocks under the sea, catch these strange creatures that are stuck on the rock; and then come back up before the wave hits you and, mercilessly, throws your frail body against the sharp-edged rocks. Ouch!
But it was worth it: we came back with around a kilo of percebes, that we promptly cooked in sea water. Let it cool down ready for lunch and enjoy the reward of your labour. Each one a mouthful of the sea with a twist of sweetness.
This real story illustrates our love for “marisco”. And the connection we have with the ocean that, in so many ways, defines what it is to be Portuguese.
“Marisco” – seafood beyond fish – is a very important part of Portuguese gastronomic culture. And, in my humble opinion, Portugal treats all seafood with respect and simple creativity, like few nations of the World.
Normally we eat it fresh and with very little fuss. Boiled in sea water, grilled or with the classic ‘Bulhão Pato’ treatment: steamed with garlic, olive oil and coriander/cilantro. Or on a “rizotto” approach: Arroz de… camarão, lingueirão, berbigão, where you get this creamy texture, with intense flavour from the sea.
Amêijoa – Clams. Fat and juicy. I like it simply steamed, or a light version of ‘Bulhão Pato’. White clams tend to be bigger than their black sisters. (6-9) *
Berbigão – Cockles. The ‘poor’ version of clams. Can be a bit rubbery, but have great taste. (6)
Búzio – Welk. Makes an interesting bean stew: Feijoada de Búzios. (6)
Camarão da Costa. Small, bright red shrimps, full of flavour. Eaten with coarse sea salt. (8)
Camarão Tigre – Tiger Prawns. In my opinion, this is an overrated version of a prawn. Good to grill or fry in butter and garlic, finished with a squeeze of lemon. (6)
Carabineiro. Red Prawn. Beautiful and full of flavour these deep red prawns are a special, if expensive, treat. (9)
Carangueijo – Crab. See Navalheira. (6)
Cracas – Thoracica. Cracas are a special seafood from the Azores. Served on its shell that is like a rock.
Gamba – The ubiquitous prawn/shrimp. I like them small to medium-sized boiled in seawater and served with a side of buttered toast. (4-8)
Lagosta and Lavagante – Lobster. Expensive and extravagant. Some people like it. (6)
Lagostim – Crayfish, Langoustin or Dublin Bay Prawn. Nice but it lacks something. Flavour? (6)
Lapa – Limpet. Steamed and served on their shell. (5)
Lingueirão – Razor Clam. Great ‘à Buhão Pato’ (7)
Mexilhão – Mussels. For some strange reason, undervalued in Portugal. (6)
Navalheira – Small crab. Boiled in seawater. It requires time and patience. (6)
Ostra – Oyster. Strangely, this is not a tradition in Portugal. Because Portuguese oysters are good and could be plentiful. I like it the French way: raw with a squeeze of lemon. (8)
Ouriço – Sea Urchin. Very popular in Ericeira, a great surfing spot, just north of Lisboa.
Percebes – Gooseneck Barnacles. The flavour of the sea. Ugly but delicious. (9)
Sapateira e Santola – Large Crab and Spider Crab. A classic in the Portuguese “Marisqueira”. Normally farm-grown. To me, it is a treat. This ritual could last almost an hour to patiently negotiate the small and large claws with the help of a hammer and a large napkin around your neck. Served with buttered toast and lots of beer. (4-8)
(*) The Gastronauta scoring is based on simple criteria: genuine and local; deliciousness. On a scale of 0 to 10, denoting gastronomic hell or heaven.
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Recommended wine. Vinho Verde is the classic buddy of Marisco, but I would suggest a dry, slightly mineral, not too acidic, white wine. Very cold on a warm Summer afternoon. I love an Encruzado from the Dão.
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Referências: Amass Cook
